When you walk through the front door of Grotto in North Syracuse, you are suddenly transported to a sophisticated, simpler time.

As Michael Bublé and Frank Sinatra sing in the background, the lights and ornaments of the Christmas tree in the bay window shimmer. The flickering dim lighting in the dining room shows the dark wooden details of the walls. Behind the bar stands one of the owners, Nancy Ostuni, wearing a black fedora.

A little bit of a hike from the Hill, the semi-upscale restaurant opened in late October and has had a slow opening ever since. Ostuni helped run restaurant La Bella Vino in Cicero and previously worked at The Sports Page, giving her some experience in the restaurant scene of Central New York. With takeout, dine-in and catering options for lunch and dinner, Ostuni’s Grotto is ready to serve customers anytime they are ready to eat.

To start my dinner, I had the special: fried meatballs. Made with a secret family recipe, this appetizer offered a hearty portion. Four large meatballs sat atop a bed of marinara sauce with sprinkled, melted Italian cheese. With a crispy outside, the meatballs were still fluffy inside. A flavorful mixture of spices allowed the meatballs to complement the sweet tomato sauce, which made a great dip for the bread on the table as well.

With each entrée, Grotto offers the option of soup or salad. I ordered the latter. Though labeled as a green salad, the bed of greens came with cucumbers, roasted red peppers and artichokes. These unlikely toppings added depth to the meal, along with the house dressing — a balsamic with a healthy helping of Gorgonzola cheese. The cheese and roasted red peppers combined for tangy and sweet flavors.

For my main dish, I ordered the scallops Florentine, which was served over a bed of linguini. The scallops were simmered in white wine and combined with sautéed spinach and a cream sauce. Rich in taste, the sauce also had hints of lemon and garlic. The plate was presented nicely and offered about eight large sea scallops, making the $18 price reasonable.  Additionally, each scallop was tender and cooked just right.

Another dish I tried was the stuffed shrimp. With a hefty lump of crabmeat rolled in a ball atop butterflied shrimp, the dish was nicely portioned. And the shrimp sat atop a hollandaise sauce.

Drenched in butter, the crabmeat tasted sweet and combined well with the shrimp. The dish was also served with sautéed green beans for some freshness and a choice of a side. I chose the Parmesan risotto. The grain was cooked al dente and had a salty and creamy flavor from the cheese. Rich in taste and a large portion, the risotto was hard to finish alongside the seafood.

Grotto’s menu features mostly seafood and meat options, so vegetarians and those with dietary restrictions might have a hard time finding options. That being said, the chef is willing to work with customers to create items that meet diners’ needs.

The owners are also huge Syracuse University basketball fans and project the games in the back overflow room for customers. The room is also used for “Hollywood nights,” which feature black and white movies and private parties up to 50 people.

While average for an Italian seafood meal, the prices are a little steep for a college student’s typical Sunday night out. But, if you are looking for a change of scenery or a hearty meal with a friend before getting on a flight home, head over to the restaurant and give it a try.

Published on December 2, 2013 at 12:26 am

Contact Nicole: nlfisher@syr.edu